Chapter 12: Introduction to the City of Florence
Central Florence
Central Florence is quite small and easily covered on foot. Here is a quick overview of the most well-known landmarks.
Il Duomo
The Duomo (the cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore) is the most recognizable monument in all of Florence. It is famous for its construction and its builder, Brunelleschi. It will also serve as your point of reference. If you're ever lost, just look for the Duomo (or the Campanile, the tower next to it).
Via de'Calzaiuoli
This street starts in front of the Duomo. If you follow this street to the end, you will come to Piazza Signoria, site of the famous (and original) "Bonfire of the Vanities." This street is filled with shops and small restaurants catering to tourists. Most things in the very center are extremely expensive and can be found elsewhere for less.
Piazza Signoria
As you enter Piazza Signoria, you'll see a group of famous statues (mostly replicas of the originals now housed in various museums in the city). Piazza Signoria has functioned as an important social and political gathering place from the Renaissance period until today. The Signoria itself served as the home of city government during the Renaissance.
Galleria degli Uffizi
To the left of the statues at the end of Piazza Signoria, you will see another building. This building, known as Galleria degli Uffizi or simply the Uffizi, is one of the world's most famous museums. It houses works by such artists as Botticelli and daVinci. The courtyard of this U-shaped building often filled with street performers, portrait artists and students gathering to talk.
Fiume Arno
If you continue straight to the bottom of the U, you will come to Fiume Arno (Arno River). The Arno divides the city in two parts; 80% of the city lies on the side on which you stand. The rest, including the Pitti Palace and the Boboli gardens, lies on the other. The other side of the river is known as Oltrarno. It is far less touristy and worth a visit for a taste of authentic Florence. A number of beautiful bridges span the Arno; the most famous is the Ponte Vecchio.
Now you have some major points of reference. All of them lie in a straight line. Walk back to the Signoria, and just past it, take a right turn onto Via dei Gondi, following it as it turns into via dei Greci. This street empties into Piazza Santa Croce, a huge gathering place that hosts the famous Calcio Storico in summer. The Calcio is part sporting event, part pageant, part war. After a display of Renaissance costumes, flag-tossing, and equestrian processions, costumed athletes take part in a brutal, early version of soccer. At the foot of the piazza is the beautiful gothic Church of Santa Croce, begun in 1294, where some of Italy's most famous sons are buried, including Dante and Michelangelo. Be sure to visit and enjoy the frescoes by Giotto. Next to the church is a lovely cloister and the Pazzi chapel, designed by Brunelleschi.
Via Roma
This street runs parallel to Via de' Calzaiuoli. It also contains shops and small restaurants like its neighbor. At its end is Piazza della Repubblica.
Piazza della Repubblica
Larger than Piazza Signoria, it bustles with everyday traffic of people heading to work or conducting business. It is flanked on both sides by upscale restaurants that move outside when the weather turns warm. Here is where you will find the post office and many cafes.
You've now been introduced to the core of Florence. We have just covered the highlights, of course! The rest is for you to explore and discover.
Language
It can be intimidating to arrive in a city where all the people speak another language, but even if you have no knowledge of Italian you shouldn't have too much difficulty. While a very large number of Florentines speak some English, do not expect every Italian person to speak English. This is as unrealistic as expecting every American to speak Italian. We suggest that if you have no knowledge of the language, it would be good to learn some of the basic terms or phrases necessary to navigate.
A few weeks before you depart for Italy, pick up an English/Italian dictionary and phrase book, and practice some common phrases. It would also be helpful to listen to some Italian language tapes (try your library; they're also available at book stores and amazon.com. For quick translations, try http://babelfish.altavista.com. The more you learn now, the less foreign and culture-shocked you'll feel later!
Italians will appreciate your efforts to speak their language, and you'll feel more like a resident and less like a tourist.
Suggested Reading, Viewing, and Surfing...
By all means, make every effort to expose yourself to what Italy has to offer before you leave the United States.
Books
The list below are suggestions, but if you have time, the ones in bold are the must-reads.
Barzini, Luigi, The Italians, Atheneum, New York.
Berenson, Bernard, Italian Painters of the Renaissance, Cornell University Press.
Cole, Bruce, Italian Art 1250-1550, Renaissance Art, Life and Society, Harper & Row, 1987.
Harrison, Barbara Grizzuti, Italian Days.
Hartt, Frederick, History of Italian Renaissance Art, Abrams.
Hauser, Ernest, Italy: A Cultural Guide.
Hibbert, C., The Rise and Fall of the House of Medici.
McCarthy, Mary, The Stones of Florence and Venice Observed.
Stone, Irving, The Agony and the Ectasy.
Wittkower, Rudolf, Art and Architecture in Italy 1600-1750. Penquin Books.
Let's Go! Italy - By far the best travel handbook for college students in Italy is the current Let's Go! Italy. This book, compiled by Harvard students, is updated every year. It will give a no-nonsense, honest approach to traveling in Italy. If a restaurant is a dive, this book will tell you. It also has other helpful hints and suggestions about traveling. For those who will go beyond the borders of Italy, they also publish Let's Go! Europe
Films
Most video stores stock classic and recent Italian movies. Some suggestions:
La Strada
Open City
The Bicycle Thief
Two Women
Swept Away
Cinema Paradiso
Il Postino (The Postman)
Life is Beautiful
Bread and Tulips
A Room With a View - a must-see, with wonderful scenes of Florence
Hannibal takes a dark look at Florence
The English Patient
The Talented Mr. Ripley is set mostly in the south of Italy and may inspire you to visit there
Under the Tuscan Sun
Websites
Do some web surfing and you'll find a wealth of information and great pictures of the city and surroundings. If the website is in Italian, look for an "English" button, or an American or British flag to click.
Florence By Net - a very useful site, with an excellent map of Florence and lots of information about the city.
Your Way to Florence - lots of great information here, including sports and fitness, transportation, and museums, and lots of other items.
The Florence Art Guide - information on museums, plus general helpful information on topics like restaurants, sports, etc.
Fionline.it - A wealth of information on culture, current events and libraries.
Firenze.net - A great place to find out about cultural events in Florence
Studentsville - Very helpful, it's totally focused on student life in Florence |
